Emma Young, Falcon Enamel's genius Creative Director, gives us a tour round her neighbourhood in North London. This is the life you want to live: coffee, cakes and culture all weekend long.
More Insider tours coming up.
I moved to London 27 years ago to study at Central St. Martin’s School of Art and have found myself tethered to Islington, N1 for the best part of that time. Over the years the area has changed dramatically which is why I never get bored. Upper Street – the main high street – has morphed from a row of retailers to an army of estate agents and (happily) now to a batch of bakeries! There are great places to visit along this road but they are easily located or stumbled upon. Instead, I’m taking you around the backstreets on a very personal, hyperlocal ‘Eating & Art’ tour of Islington!
Begin the day at a bakery. There are so many great ones to choose from that I’ve narrowed it down to three! Pop into Pophams on 19 Prebend Street for the best almond croissant in town. Tucked away behind the Essex Road and a housing estate you would absolutely miss this place, but those in the know queue out of the door!
Begin the day at a bakery. There are so many great ones to choose from that I’ve narrowed it down to three! Pop into Pophams on 19 Prebend Street for the best almond croissant in town. Tucked away behind the Essex Road and a housing estate you would absolutely miss this place, but those in the know queue out of the door!
Jolene is another great option for take away breakfast and lunch. Located on the corner of Essex Road and Colebrook Row – you can’t miss its fabulous orange exterior. The sandwiches in here are an absolute must and perfectly packaged for take-away.
Last, but by no means least, check out the utterly indulgent Buns from Home. Founded by two brothers during lock-down who started, well, baking buns from home! The bakery has taken London by storm with eight outlets including one in Islington’s Camden Passage.
If by now you’ve followed all my trail of cafés you will be (feeling very full) and standing in the middle of Camden Passage – a quaint, pedestrian street filled with antique, vintage and contemporary shops. From here, you are perfectly located to join the Regent’s Canal Path where you can walk off your breakfast(s) with a gentle stroll. (If you continue walking along the tow path for 4 miles you will find yourself in the Olympic Village where you can really work those buns off!).
After all that walking head straight to the Duke of Cambridge - a pioneering organic pub/restaurant which has been certified by the Soil Association since opening in 1998. The food is outstanding (I’d recommend the crab starter) and the menu will accommodate all preferences from vegan, veggie and pescatarian to wholehearted carnivore. This pub holds a special place in my heart because it’s the first place my husband took me on a date. I’m pleased to say both have stood the test of time!
After all that walking head straight to the Duke of Cambridge - a pioneering organic pub/restaurant which has been certified by the Soil Association since opening in 1998. The food is outstanding (I’d recommend the crab starter) and the menu will accommodate all preferences from vegan, veggie and pescatarian to wholehearted carnivore. This pub holds a special place in my heart because it’s the first place my husband took me on a date. I’m pleased to say both have stood the test of time!
The Place is the place to get your first coffee hit on a Sunday morning. An independent café in the heart of the Canonbury Conservation area, run by Tom (also the resident baker) it has a friendly, unpretentious atmosphere and serves delicious seasonal homemade food. The walls are adorned with ever-changing artwork which extends to a gallery tucked away in the basement. (Hang around long enough and you might also bump into regular, Kiera Knightly).
Next stop, on the same street, view the oldest building in Islington built in 1509. The remarkably well-preserved Canonbury Tower has been home to some of the most fascinating figures in English history – including Thomas Cromwell and Francis Bacon. A 90-minute guided tour of the Tower can be pre-booked and provides magnificent views for miles across London.
Next stop, on the same street, view the oldest building in Islington built in 1509. The remarkably well-preserved Canonbury Tower has been home to some of the most fascinating figures in English history – including Thomas Cromwell and Francis Bacon. A 90-minute guided tour of the Tower can be pre-booked and provides magnificent views for miles across London.
From here it is easy to connect with the New River Path – an unexpected oasis where you can spot coy carp and heron (and nosy into the rear gardens of some of Canonbury’s most prestigious houses!). The river is in fact a seventeenth-century canal engineered to bring fresh waster to London. End to end, it is just a 15 minute walk but if you want to take your time and learn more about its fascinating history you can pre-book a guided walking tour.
Track back to Canonbury Square, and you can rest your feet in a pretty garden square overlooked by a townhouse once home to George Orwell during his time of writing Animal Farm. On any given day you might bump into local artist Gary Power busy at work with his easel and oil paints. Gary has been obsessively painting the same streets in Canonbury for over a decade – and his abstract expressionist style is reminiscent of Edward Hopper’s work. I caught up with Gary, whilst compiling this guide, and I’m excited to announce that he’s agreed to paint some Falcon Enamelware still life’s so look out for this on our website Journal…
Opposite Canonbury Square is the Estorick Collection – a Grade II listed Georgian town house converted into a gallery showcasing Modern Italian Art. Known internationally for its core Futurist works and figurative paintings, the gallery’s permanent collection includes portraits of one of my favourite artists – Amedeo Modigliani. There is a wonderful courtyard café and bookshop hidden behind the gated entranceway which welcomes all visitors – including those that just wish to pop in for a coffee and a browse of the bookshop.
Opposite Canonbury Square is the Estorick Collection – a Grade II listed Georgian town house converted into a gallery showcasing Modern Italian Art. Known internationally for its core Futurist works and figurative paintings, the gallery’s permanent collection includes portraits of one of my favourite artists – Amedeo Modigliani. There is a wonderful courtyard café and bookshop hidden behind the gated entranceway which welcomes all visitors – including those that just wish to pop in for a coffee and a browse of the bookshop.
One final destination I should probably mention is our Falcon Enamelware showroom! Located in Clerkenwell at 39 Rosebery Avenue, it is a pleasant 30 minute walk from Upper Street (or 15 min bus ride on the no.19). The showroom is closed on the weekends but the team will always welcome visitors when open. Clerkenwell is a fascinating area with lots of things to see and do – but I’ll save that one for another Insider!
