We love a brand that starts with retail. Pilgrim Surf + Supply opened its first store in Brooklyn in 2012 as a sort of gathering space for surfers, writers and musicians. A serendipitous partnership with Beams led to the opening of stores in Kyoto and Tokyo and accelerated the growth of the apparel side of the business. Founded by Chris Gentile, Pilgrim is inspired by his love of music and surfing (the name is an homage to Pilgrim Avenue, Rhode Island where he first surfed). It references heritage classics but is not slavish to its inspiration. The collection uses small factories, recycled and upcycled fabric and keeps order volumes low to minimise waste.