ALICE'S GUIDE TO
If you love bustling city breaks, incredible food, hot weather and being immersed in culture, Rome is hard to beat. Yes, it's touristy, but if you can look past the backpacks and fan-wielding crowds, it's an absolute bucket-list destination. Around every corner there's another incredible Roman ruin, and what's especially impressive is seeing how many are being carefully restored for future generations. You really can see where the tourism money goes, preserving nearly 3,000 years of history.
My husband Josh is a complete history geek, while I'm more drawn to art, architecture and fashion, and somehow Rome caters perfectly to both. Whatever you're interested in, you'll find your thing here.
First things first: coffee. You can't come to Italy and skip an espresso. I'd recommend finding a neighbourhood café away from the main tourist routes, where you can watch everyday Roman life unfold instead of ordering from a picture menu. We loved Sanzini in Prati, a family-run spot serving fantastic coffee and fresh pastries. They even made pistachio cream from scratch to fill my cornetto, which tells you everything you need to know.
The Vatican City is an obvious must-see, but it's worth dedicating a full day if you can. Remember to bring your passport or another form of ID, and dress modestly or you'll be asked to cover up. The museums house one of the most extraordinary collections of art, sculpture and frescoes I've ever seen, while the ceilings are just as breathtaking as the masterpieces beneath them. The Sistine Chapel is every bit as spectacular as you'd hope, despite the crowds, and the respectful silence inside makes it even more memorable.
When you're ready to slow the pace, head to Trastevere. We spent most of our evenings here, wandering cobbled streets lined with ivy-covered buildings and soaking up the atmosphere. L'Oratorio, tucked into a medieval church courtyard, is perfect for cocktails and music, while Mimi e Coco is one of those places where a simple bruschetta by candlelight, surrounded by the hum of conversation, feels like absolute heaven.
For something a little different, especially on a hot day, head out to the Catacombs of San Callisto. We hired scooters to get there, and the tree-lined roads felt a world away from the busy city centre. The guided tour is fascinating, and the cool underground tunnels are a welcome escape from the summer heat. Afterwards, we grabbed a coffee in the peaceful grounds before heading back.
Rome's biggest attractions soon add up, but there are some brilliant free sights too. The Teatro di Marcello, often described as a smaller Colosseum, has served as everything from an ancient theatre to a fish market, while the nearby Portico d'Ottavia offers beautiful ruins without the queues. Just a short walk away, L'Insalata Ricca became our favourite lunch stop. Fresh salads, excellent calzones and the perfect place to linger over postcards and people-watching.
The Pantheon is best visited first thing in the morning before it fills up. It's one of the best-preserved buildings of Ancient Rome, and walking inside genuinely felt like stepping back in time. Afterwards, order an espresso in the square outside and watch Rome slowly come to life around you.
The Colosseum needs little introduction, but don't overlook the Roman Forum nearby. As the heart of Ancient Rome and an active archaeological site, it's fascinating whether you're simply walking through or exploring in more depth. Booking attractions in advance can save both money and time. Before you leave the area, pick up a mortadella sandwich from Falo Bistrot and enjoy it overlooking Circus Maximus. It won't win any awards for presentation, but we went back twice just for that sandwich.
A few final tips: keep an eye on your belongings as pickpocketing is common, carry a reusable water bottle as Rome's free drinking fountains are everywhere, and don't forget sun cream because shade can be hard to find. If you're visiting churches, make sure your knees and shoulders are covered, and keep your backpack small as many attractions restrict larger bags. Try the homemade chilled red wine if you see it on a menu – it sounds unusual but it's delicious. I'd also skip the rooftop bars, which are often expensive and geared towards tourists, and make time for St Peter's Basilica. Entry is free, and it's one of the most impressive places in the city.
