Rob and Theo go to Paris
January is the month of the Menswear Market in Paris. Rob and Theo braved the gilets jaunes and hot footed it to the City of Lights.
The Shows
This is most definitely a work trip. Anyone who thinks store buyers spend the day shopping and drinking coffee must acquaint themselves with Rob’s busy 4 day schedule which will account for over half his yearly menswear budget.
Stop 1: Welcome Edition, based around the Marais, is a private multi brand showroom event for contemporary menswear, founded by British industry figures Mark Batista and designer Kestin Hare. Less a trade show and more a loose affiliation of like minded labels, and set around various locations in the area.
Stop 2: Man in the Place Vendome. Man is an international show, with exhibitions in both New York and Paris, specifically curated for each city. Featuring 180 designers, showcasing many of the big American labels, Rob and Theo caught up with some of our longtime favourites including Gramicci and Portuguese Flannel as well as some new favourites like the guys from Nanamica.
Stop 3: If you are imagining that life for a store buyer involves sitting front row at a runway show, chit chatting with the creative director’s wife and checking out the celebrities at the after party, then you are some way to imagining their Day 3 experience. New CD at tailoring brand Dunhill, Mark Weston, is a firm friend of The Hambledon and very kindly set the boys up with tickets to his Paris show. Front row luxury is a rare but very much appreciated treat and A list spotting (Kano, Will Poulter et al) is an added bonus.
Stop 4: a day of appointments around the city with agents and designers who take space in hotels, apartments and shops to show their collections.
Autumn/ Winter 2020
The important bit. What are the key stories for AW20? And which are the stand out brands from the trip? Expect to supersize for the Autumn. Every collection featured the baggy, conversational trouser. Loose shirting is definitely a thing. It’s an earthy palette, featuring browns, taupes and mucky greens. Key fabrications are corduroy and wool plaids in all its many guises; from micro checks and mini dog tooths to lumberjack tartans. There’s a certain homespun aesthetic in terms of some of the production, with crochets and vintage fabrics widely used, but this is in no way homemade. These are trends adopted and adapted for a fashion market. Rob and Theo both voted for Adsum as the trip’s standout: a collection of new seriousness, finding a convincing place between sportswear and grown up dressing. Saturdays NYC and Knickerbocker put together strong rails. Rob is saving YMC for a London buying day but it’s looking like a vintage season from them. Nanamica are ploughing their particular, and particularly beautiful, furrow. Expect a consolidation of our SS20 buy, which is due in store soon. There are lots of exciting new brands on the horizon. But Rob is playing his cards very close to his chest. More on this later.
Free Time
There wasn’t a lot of time for hanging around in cafes smoking Gauloises. The boys stayed at the Mob Hotel in St Ouen, listening to tunes and eating pizza. They drank at Bambino in Republique, listening to tunes (theme developing?). They drank (theme developing) at Le Salon du Pantheon in the Latin Quarter and met up with old friend, the lovely Tennesha Vanterpool . They shopped in St Germain for wildly expensive pianos and antique furniture. Such is the life of a fashion buyer.
Don't Get Ahead of Yourself
Before we get too immersed in the world of AW, take a look at the first collections in the Basement for SS20. More arriving almost, but not quite, daily.