Edwin and the Nihon Menpu Factory
It’s a new season. And it’s brand new denim from Hambledon basement favourite, Edwin. And in celebration of our 20th Birthday we’ve collaborated with them on an exclusive Regular Tapered.
The Backstory to Japanese Denim
Following Japan’s defeat in the war, the country was occupied by allied forces led by the US. The former empire was dissolved and a democratic government established. Its economy and education system was re-organised and an intensive process of reconstruction was undertaken. By the 1950s the States and Japan, enemies only 10 years previously, became allies and American culture established a foothold in the country.
The Edwin Story
Founded in 1947 in the economically straitened times following the Second World War, Edwin started life as a business selling imported used American denim (laundered and mended) to Japanese customers.
There was no denim manufacture in Japan at the time. As the economic situation improved in the 50s Japanese denim production was established. But it did not match the genuine US article for fit, wash and quality and Mr Tsunemi launched his own brand Edwin (a sort of rudimentary anagram of DENIM). For all AW19 denim, production is based in Japan and for a limited number of styles production is out of the world famous Nihon Menpu factory.
The Nihon Menpu Factory
Established in Ibara in the Yokohama prefecture, Nihon Menpu was originally a business specialising in the Japanese weaving technique of ‘bitchu kokura’, using indigo dyed fabric. Ibara is a small city in the river basin of the Oda river (a branch of the Takahashi river) and because of its particular geography, characterised by abundant water and a mild climate, cotton and indigo growing has been a long standing, traditional industry in the area.
Nihon Menpu and Denim Production
In 1965 the factory began to produce denim. The denim is woven on customised 1920s Toyoda (later known as industrial and automobile giant Toyota) G10 shuttle looms (take notes, we’re going to test you later). The machines weave more slowly than more modern looms and consequently the resulting fabric is softer, smoother and more relaxed. The yarn is dyed in vats of indigo (because only the outside of the yarn is dyed, denim fabric washes whiter, the uncoloured interior of the yarn becoming more exposed with wear). Post weaving, the fabric is sanforised (a process of pre shinkage). Any washed finishes are done after the making up of the jeans.
The New Edwin Fabrications
One shape, two denims, two washes. 14 oz Open Weave Red/White Selvedge in Regular Tapered (using American cotton). 13.5oz Dark Pure Indigo (using cotton from Turfan in China) in Used and, drum roll please, in Raw with exclusive 20th Birthday collaboration leather jacron (yes, I know the leather label has a specific name).
The Hambledon Exclusives
To celebrate our 20th Birthday we’ve worked with some of our very favourite suppliers on a series of exclusive products ranging from marshmallows to jeans; block print bags to shirts; boots to baskets (unique designs, unique colours, unique to us for a limited period).